Showing posts with label le deux magots. Show all posts
Showing posts with label le deux magots. Show all posts

Friday, December 15, 2023

Paris 1: Art, Love and my Bohemian Life

Portrait of Francesco Fontana (detail) by Davy Lim, Paris 1982
Myth of broken artists and the struggle to make a dream come true ~
Paris Memoir Part Two | Part Three

As you may have heard from some interviews with Eric Rhoads, I started my career in Paris in the eighties. But never shared details that I believe might interest the fans of artists' life. I was twenty years old and earned my bread as a tourists' portrait artist. The most iconic place I worked was Montmartre. This early experience gave me an artistic and ethical imprint for life, and is still an inspiration 40 plus years later. Maybe some of these memories can inspire you too.

Van Gogh and his time in Montmartre

Van Gogh's Le Moulin de la Gallette.
Van Gogh's Le Moulin de la Gallette.
The Basilica of Sacre Coeur at the top of Montmartre hill can be seen from many corners of Paris. Behind the large white church lies the famous Place du Tertre, jam packed with artists' stand and cafe terrace. 

Back in the day it was already a tourist attraction, with many souvenir shops. But it was still the place where Gauguin, Pissarro, Toulouse-Lautrec used to be and where Van Gogh lived for a while with his brother Theo in Rue Lepic and painted the nearby windmill: Le Moulin de la Gallette.

The fight to grab a spot

Permitted artist a their official spot in Montmartre, Paris
Permitted artist a their official spot in Montmartre, Paris

The space was limited. In addition to the official permits that the City had recently established, the square was kinda bossed by a clan of Slavs. I guess that was the legacy of the first come first sat up times. No longer than ten years earlier, the artists daily battle to grab a spot began at 5 in the morning, still dark. (1972, The Underdogs of Montamartre, video).The many unauthorized walking artists at the entry of the square, are a tradition too. 

New romance every day 

Therefore the street portraitists who continued to arrive from abroad had occupied the large Beaubourg plateau, in front of the Centre Pompidou. In the evening we moved to the Latin Quarter, especially on the legendary Boulevard Saint Germain. Which I remember as romantic stroll place, where new romance started every other night!

I was one of these kids attracted by a bohemian dream, who had left Sicily and landed in France with no money nor a word of French.

When the fakirs attacked us

On the Plateau du Beaubourg it was tough, there were about 40 painters and as many street artists including fire eaters, fakirs, acrobats. One day a group of them attacked us, throwing our stools and easels into the air. To make room for their special event. I proposed myself as a negotiator between calling the police and go for revenge. We ended up shaking hands and share a drink with the fakirs!

Walking portraitist at the entry of Place du Tertre, Montmartre
Walking portraitist at the entry of Place du Tertre, Montmartre

Nevertheless I had the chance to be head butted in another fight and had my front teeth almost knocked out. I had tried to defend a girl who had her necklace snatched by an Arab gangster, - as she approached for a portrait. My mouth bleeding, I was taken to a dentist who saved my smile!

Part 2 next week. Stay tuned for Picasso around the corner, Love and the great old masters, Lifetime friendships and more stories!

Happy Art Life! -- Francesco
PS. What story would you like to read in my MuseLetter? Comment below or reply to the email
Paris Memoir Part Two | Part Three